My Recipe Box
Ferment
The wort has now been boiled for the proper length of time and is ready to be added to the fermenter. The wort is sterile from such a long boil, so we must be extra careful with cleanliness from this point forward. Fill your sanitized fermenter with the balance of cold water (wort + cold water = 5 gallons). I suggest using bottled, distilled, or boiled and cooled tap water to ensure no impurities are in the additional water. Pour the boiled wort, through a strainer, and into the fermenter.
Take your Specific Gravity (starting gravity) reading at this point. Using a hydrometer , measure the density of the wort and record it in your notes. This reading, along with your Terminal Gravity (final, ending gravity) reading, will allow you to note the exact change in the beer and calculate your alcohol content.
When the temperature has reached a safe range, typically about 75 degrees F, add the contents of the yeast packet to the wort. A wort chiller is a great tool to get the temperature down in a short period of time. Once you have pitched the yeast you will have to aerate the mixture. The more oxygen at this stage of brewing, the better the yeast will perform. Place the lid on the fermenter and vigorously shake for 10 to 20 minutes.
The airlock must be partially filled with water to form a one-way valve through which gas can escape, but nothing else can enter. The airlock will allow out-gassing while the yeast is generating carbon dioxide in an otherwise air-tight container. Place the fermenter in a dark, room temperature location, during the fermentation cycle. Primary fermentation usually takes about 7 to 10 days. Longer for heavy beers and lagers. You can judge the state of the ferment by monitoring the activity of the airlock. After the action has slowed to only a bubbles every couple of minutes, the fermenting is likely complete. If you are using a two stage fermentation process you can transfer the beer into the secondary fermenter at this time. A two stage process will guarantee proper fermentation and also allow your beer to settle and clear.
Take your Terminal Gravity reading now. If there is no or little change in the readings your fermentation may be stuck or need a little more time to ferment. Follow the directions on the hydrometer for calculating alcohol percentage. Be sure to record both the Specific and Terminal gravity readings for future reference.
Bottle
After the fermentation has completed, you essentially have flat, raw tasting beer. Now comes the part that most commercial breweries get around. The carbonation in homebrew and other beer is natural. That is, yeast that is inactive in the newly bottled beer is given more sugar to eat and the carbon dioxide gases carbonate the beer. Commercial breweries force carbonate beer on a conveyer belt.
The first step in bottling is to obtain enough bottles for your batch. Five gallons of beer is equivalent to about 2 cases or 48 bottles. Your best bet is to get a couple of cases of returnable bottles from your local bar or liquor store. DO NOT USE TWIST OFF BOTTLES!
First, you'll need to decant, or siphon off the top layer of beer from the accumulated sediment, leaving the sediment behind in the fermentation vessel. The beer is siphoned into a bottling bucket where the priming sugar can be added. Dissolve 3/4 cup of corn sugar in warm water and boil lightly. Gently stir into the beer. AERATION IS NOT DESIRED AT THIS POINT. Use your bottle filler to fill the bottles leaving about 1 inch of air space at the top of the bottle. Attach the bottle caps using your capper.
Age
Now the tough part, waiting. The first week in the bottle is often done at room temperature to encourage the yeast to consume the new sugars. It can then be placed in a little cooler environment where it will age, and thus improve in quality, for a couple of weeks. Some beers take months to age properly, but most homebrew recipes will be just fine in about 2 - 4 weeks. Avoid the temptation and let them age for the proper time.
Once the bottled beer has aged, you get to enjoy it. Cool it down, slightly, and pour it into a glass. Your bottle will contain sediment at the bottom. This is normal and will not harm you in any way. Try to leave it in the bottle however because it can cause off flavors. If your beer gushes when it is poured, it is either too warm or too much sugar was used during bottling.
These are the guidelines for all homebrews. Follow the specific directions for each individual recipe to properly brew each batch